Greetings
This story takes place in south of a few borders, in a once war torn country, with a flimsy barely functioning system. Where odd occurrences are the norm, and all expectations are thwarted by, from some perspectives, a twisted reality. Life moves at a different pace, and in a different way.
The following story is merely an example of the life here, strange, but oddly normal. I spent the day at the beach, called las peñitas, with a few friends from Austria. The waves were massive, stretching almost up to the houses, but beautiful in its natural power. We stayed until sunset, and caught the last bus back to León. As we approached the bus, we could immediately tell that it was full. Not full as in no more seats, but full as in no more seats or spaces to stand. Full, as in people pressed tightly together, gripping what little overhead bar that was available. The three girls squeezed in, like fitting together a puzzle, but alas, there was no room for me. Me, and another few people had to hang on the back of the bus, as in, outside of the bus, as it trekked along the bumpy dirt road. On the main road, technically under repair, but in very bad condition, the bus stopped to pick up more people (How? is the question that comes to mind). As a result of the overcrowding, the bus assistant ushered us on the outside to climb to the top of the bus. About 7 of us went on top and rode the rest of the way perched on top! It was an adventure, and seriously much more comfortable than inside the bus.
We made it back safely, but one of the Austrian girls paid for her ride with a bigger bill, and didn't get any change. As she asked for her change, the bus sped away. This brings me to another aspect of life here where you need to be alert at all times. There have been a couple of occasions where I've been screwed. Like the time I rode the bus, and they charged me 10 cordobas for a 3 cordoba ride (Perhaps a theme with buses??). Or at the market, I never know if they are charging me more for the fruit compared to the 'local's price'. Either way, it's all dirt cheap. For example, the room that I'm renting is $80 a month, cheap right? I thought so until I was talking with my Nica friend who says her entire house, for her whole family, is only $30 a month. So, one room for 80 is significantly more, I'd even say outrageously more. We're talking about two and a half times more price wise for a room instead of a house. Granted, the location of my place is unbeatable. Plus there's two maids, a garden, etc.
For the month of February I took classes at the nearby casa de cultura-guitar, art, and dance. For $10 a month each, it was well worth it, and I learned a substantial amount, but still experienced the Nica way of doing things.
For guitar, the teacher would write some chords on the board, and then leave me alone in the room for 30+ minutes to practice. When he returned, he'd expect me to have it down. I found this style of teaching frustrating since he spent such little time with me, and consequently I confronted him about it. Although he's a very good guitar player it was clear that teaching wasn't his passion, as he lacked the desire to tend to his students needs.
For dance, once again the teacher was a really talented dancer, but he too had his own quirks. basically he was bipolar (or could've been based on how he acted). He starts with a huge smile on his face as he demonstrated the dance move, but was quick to anger if the students didn't give their undivided attention or didn't heed his commands. He was quick to offer the ultimatum of leaving. Plus, he was more concerned about getting on with the girls in the class instead of teaching us the twists and twirls.
For art, I couldn't really complain about the teaching, but more about the teacher. At the beginning of the class I was required to by certain art supplies (sketchbook, paintbrushes, paint, bastidor-whatever that is, etc.) and I paid for them right away. The only problem was with receiving the supplies, which took ages. After a week or two he got me my paints, except blue for whatever reason. But the worst part was for the paintbrushes, which he told me that they were imported from Honduras, but would come 'tomorrow'. So I'd drop by, but still no paintbrushes. This repeated for weeks on end. He'd say come by in the afternoon' and then he wouldn't even be there. I finally asked for my money back since the whole situation was making me frustrated. Almost two weeks after the class had ended the paintbrushes came, and I had to explain to him that I didn't even need them anymore, given that the class was over.
And then to get an extension on my visa, I had to go to the immigration office 4 times, since the first 3 times they came up with different excuses for not being able to give me the requested service. I share these examples to show that this is not abnormal, but a daily occurrence here. Often times it's frustrating, other times laughable. Between my friends we share our like experiences and probably could compile a sizable log.
That all said, I wouldn't want to do business here or work here (extremely low wages) but it's a great place to visit and live for a while. I have a spanish exchange partner, and that, along with reading and speaking everyday, has really helped my spanish. I can speak freely and understand better than ever.
I guess it'll be strange to back in a country where things function normally...
All my love
Tuesday, March 17, 2009
Saturday, February 7, 2009
Living in the third world
Living in the third world is an interesting experience, because at any time, without any warning, something unpredictable can and does happen. Most of it is trivial, causing chuckles or astonishment. Like seeing a family of four Nicaraguans piled on one bike. Or, the city bus system is a web of caminetas, pick up trucks with benches in the back with a tarped roof.
These people are resourceful! And clearly, it's out of necessity more than anything else.
As for electricity and water, it's present, but spotty. During the superbowl, I missed the first quarter, and not because I late, but because the power went out. And for the water, we fill buckets at my place in order to prepare for the daily water shortage, and still take showers/go along with our daily chores somewhat unimpaired.
The people here are generally really friendly, which I'm quickly learning is a red flag. I'm getting better at reading people, and figuring out if they are just being nice because they want to get something from me, which is usually the case. Still, foreigners are a safe bet, and now I've been here long enough to establish some friendships with good people.
But what goes along with all this is a very low cost of living. Let me break it down.
Room-$80
Guitar Class for one month-$10
Used bicycle- $40
New cell phone-$20
liter of beer at the bar-$2
hour of internet- $.50
typical breakfast-$1.50
Latte-$1
dozen bananas-$.60
pineapple-$.50
So, it's all a give and take. For a couple of months, it's perfect. Sunny, beaches nearby, volcanoes in the distance, and lots of leisure time.
Even as I write this I noticed my bicycle was missing from the outside the window. I got a little shocked, asked around, and finally to the guard, who said he moved it to the back. But still, it's another reminder of the unpredictibility of this place.
I still search with open eyes for spiritual/philosophical beings around me.
Lots of Love
These people are resourceful! And clearly, it's out of necessity more than anything else.
As for electricity and water, it's present, but spotty. During the superbowl, I missed the first quarter, and not because I late, but because the power went out. And for the water, we fill buckets at my place in order to prepare for the daily water shortage, and still take showers/go along with our daily chores somewhat unimpaired.
The people here are generally really friendly, which I'm quickly learning is a red flag. I'm getting better at reading people, and figuring out if they are just being nice because they want to get something from me, which is usually the case. Still, foreigners are a safe bet, and now I've been here long enough to establish some friendships with good people.
But what goes along with all this is a very low cost of living. Let me break it down.
Room-$80
Guitar Class for one month-$10
Used bicycle- $40
New cell phone-$20
liter of beer at the bar-$2
hour of internet- $.50
typical breakfast-$1.50
Latte-$1
dozen bananas-$.60
pineapple-$.50
So, it's all a give and take. For a couple of months, it's perfect. Sunny, beaches nearby, volcanoes in the distance, and lots of leisure time.
Even as I write this I noticed my bicycle was missing from the outside the window. I got a little shocked, asked around, and finally to the guard, who said he moved it to the back. But still, it's another reminder of the unpredictibility of this place.
I still search with open eyes for spiritual/philosophical beings around me.
Lots of Love
Thursday, November 27, 2008
south of a few borders
Greetings from tico-land aka costa rica. It's the land where buses drive with open doors, rain comes to you sideways, and distances are greater than they seem.
Today I went to the volcano closest to me, a mere 20 miles away, voclan poas. Once I got to the park, and hiked up to the viewpoint, I was met with a white wall of clouds. It was like staring at the side of a house-nothing could be seen. But it was there, still, under it all. I guess the park is known for its cloud cover. Then to the lagoon, which also was clouded over, so I got another, albeit ethereal, view of the eternal whiteness.
I'm staying in the second biggest city in Costa Rica, called Alajuela, was feels more like a small town. Walking around town I saw a couple of people my age playing chess in the park. I joined them, beat them, and made some new friends. This also happened in the capital city, San Jose. Everyone seems really friendly.
I'm moving to a new hostel in the downtown area for the weekend, and by then I should have a better idea about what my stay here in central america will look like.
That said, I'm very happy with my spanish level, given I've been here for 4 days, and I see its strengths and weaknesses. But it keeps getting better and better.
I can't wait to be laying out on the coast
Pura Vida!
Today I went to the volcano closest to me, a mere 20 miles away, voclan poas. Once I got to the park, and hiked up to the viewpoint, I was met with a white wall of clouds. It was like staring at the side of a house-nothing could be seen. But it was there, still, under it all. I guess the park is known for its cloud cover. Then to the lagoon, which also was clouded over, so I got another, albeit ethereal, view of the eternal whiteness.
I'm staying in the second biggest city in Costa Rica, called Alajuela, was feels more like a small town. Walking around town I saw a couple of people my age playing chess in the park. I joined them, beat them, and made some new friends. This also happened in the capital city, San Jose. Everyone seems really friendly.
I'm moving to a new hostel in the downtown area for the weekend, and by then I should have a better idea about what my stay here in central america will look like.
That said, I'm very happy with my spanish level, given I've been here for 4 days, and I see its strengths and weaknesses. But it keeps getting better and better.
I can't wait to be laying out on the coast
Pura Vida!
Thursday, October 23, 2008
Friday, October 17, 2008
Out Again
I've been back from Korea for almost 2 months now, and the traveling has been nonstop. 3 major trips elapsed, with intermittent rests in Sacramento. The first, and most necessary, was to the Bay area, where I stayed on couches at friend's houses (how blessed am I to be surrounded by good people), and seeing all my siblings. It reminded me that everyone's lives are constantly in motion, but friends are always there for me.
The next adventure led me to Baja California on a bus named Gus, who ran on vegetable oil. The 15 tripgoers all emanated youth and happiness, and we all clicked right away. The dynamic felt so natural planned, even though we were all strangers before. We stopped in Ensenada for food and to have a look around, before embarking on the trek. Hours down a 2 lane highway, and then the turnoff to the dirt road, which went on and on for another 4 hours. We camped out by a pond, with very few and distant neighbors.
We crossed the border through Tecate, said our goodbyes, and I stayed in the LA area for a week and a half. First with a friend from the trip, and then a friend from childhood. I got to see all sorts of friends from old, and friends from college in LA, which evoked unforeseen emotions. Mostly good ones, I'd say.
And now I'm out again, typing away from the McGill campus library in Montreal. I flew out to Boston a few days ago, stayed in a hostel, and without many housing options decided to go straight to Montreal, where I'm visiting my best friend from Berkeley. Walking down a cute avenue I stumbled into a chess cafe and joined in the games. The competition was stiff, but I held my own winning more than losing. One guy remarked that the best players in all of canada come here, and I wouldn't be surprised based on the level I encountered.
Next? Looks like a triangulation to Toronto and back stateside to New York.
I'm feeling like where's waldo.
danthenomad
The next adventure led me to Baja California on a bus named Gus, who ran on vegetable oil. The 15 tripgoers all emanated youth and happiness, and we all clicked right away. The dynamic felt so natural planned, even though we were all strangers before. We stopped in Ensenada for food and to have a look around, before embarking on the trek. Hours down a 2 lane highway, and then the turnoff to the dirt road, which went on and on for another 4 hours. We camped out by a pond, with very few and distant neighbors.
We crossed the border through Tecate, said our goodbyes, and I stayed in the LA area for a week and a half. First with a friend from the trip, and then a friend from childhood. I got to see all sorts of friends from old, and friends from college in LA, which evoked unforeseen emotions. Mostly good ones, I'd say.
And now I'm out again, typing away from the McGill campus library in Montreal. I flew out to Boston a few days ago, stayed in a hostel, and without many housing options decided to go straight to Montreal, where I'm visiting my best friend from Berkeley. Walking down a cute avenue I stumbled into a chess cafe and joined in the games. The competition was stiff, but I held my own winning more than losing. One guy remarked that the best players in all of canada come here, and I wouldn't be surprised based on the level I encountered.
Next? Looks like a triangulation to Toronto and back stateside to New York.
I'm feeling like where's waldo.
danthenomad
Saturday, October 11, 2008
Friday, August 8, 2008
안영하세요!
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